Bye Bye, Dove

Marta, the Determined One, walks into her neighborhood supermarket.  She only wants to buy a couple of things.  She goes straight to the point, like always.
She’s about to head to the checkout when she sees Valeria.

They live close to each other, but Marta lives in a normal flat, and Valeria lives in a gated community with a swimming pool, gardens, and a paddle tennis court.  Their kids have been friends since preschool.

To Marta, Valeria is one of those women who always seem to have extra time and money to do everything perfectly.

She looks at her from head to toe.  Camper Pelotas shoes, baggy harem pants, a no-iron t-shirt, “wrinkles are beautiful” style…. Ufff!  That elegant but effortless style!  That amazing body…

Marta feels small.

Suddenly, she sees Valeria raise her arm, phone in hand, and it’s pretty clear her armpit is not shaved.  He, he, he… Marta feels empowered and gives a little smile, while one clear word pops into her mind:

ECOPOSH.

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“Hi!”

“Maaaarta!”  Valeria greets her excitedly.  “How are you?”

“Super good.  And you?  Taking pictures of a sausage?”

“Nooo,  I’m scanning the barcode to check if it has nitrites.”

“What?”  Marta doesn’t know what to say and feels like a balloon deflating.

“It’s an app.  It tells you the quality of the products.  Look, I’ll show you how it works.”

Valeria comes closer and, without asking, puts her hand into Marta’s basket. She pulls out a bar of Dove soap.

“For example, this…” she scans it and says,  “Look, 50 out of 100!  Just barely passed — nothing special.”

Marta feels a sting in her pride. Nothing special?  Excuse meee?  She takes a deep breath and starts talking, trying to stay calm.

“I’ve been using Dove since I was 20,” she answers.
“And do you know why? Because I loved seeing real women in their campaigns — women of all ages and colors, in their bra and panties, showing their rolls, instead of the usual models, beautiful and ridiculously perfect. It touched me, honestly. Since then, I always use it, and it leaves my skin super so…”

“Yessss,” Valeria cuts in, “it was the Real Beauty campaign — sooo good! It was a before and after in the world of advertising. It helped lots of women like you make peace with their bodies.  A new paradigm, really.  They created it after discovering in a study that only 2% of women felt beautiful.  Crazy, right? That’s why it made sense to you.”

Marta’s face turns red with anger while Valeria keeps talking, lost in her own speech.

“But don’t trust them too much:  They do greenwashing too.  Look, the Unilever group, the one that owns Dove, also sells soaps under other brands to lighten African women’s skin.  Here it’s all about real beauty and sweet talk, and in Africa, they sell whitening creams.  So nice, right?

Why the fuck do I care about what they sell in Africa?  Marta thinks, biting her tongue.  She feels like telling her a thing or two, but all she feels is anger, and she has no real arguments.  And on top of that, this eco-posh girl knows everything.

Valeria goes on, “And another thing,” she adds, bringing the soap closer to her nose, “this smells like laundry detergent — it’s full of synthetic perfumes.”

“I LIKE IT, OKAY?  IT SMELLS CLEAN!” Marta cries out at the top of her voice.

Silence…

Then Valeria smiles, digs into her bag, and pulls out a small piece of soap wrapped in tissue paper.  She holds it out to Marta.

“Here.  A friend of mine makes these soaps.  They sell them at the herbal shop on the corner. I always carry one to make my bag smell nice. Smell it.”

Without time to react, Marta sniffs it.  It reminds her of something, but she can’t quite figure out what.

Valeria gently slips it into Marta’s shirt pocket.  Marta doesn’t know whether to thank her or wring her neck.

“Take care, Marta,” says Valeria, with that perfect smile.

“You too,”  Marta replies.

Marta pays for her shopping with her usual Dove soap, but she feels confused.
That woman… that tone… that unshaved armpit…

———————-

Three days later, at home and feeling calmer, she finds the piece of soap in her pocket.  She smells it absentmindedly.  A memory pops into her mind:  Rosemary, lavender, lemon.  Mediterranean plants! Summers in Alicante.  La Casa de los Limoneros…

She sighs.  She gets up, walks to her son’s bathroom, and leaves the DOVE soap there.  In that simple gesture, without even thinking about it, something has changed.

A new conviction starts to grow inside her:  Now Marta wants those handmade soaps, even if they cost more, even if she feels unfaithful… and despite Valeria.

TEST A / HOW CIRCULAR ARE YOU?

A1. PRODUCT CIRCULARITY

Dove has taken some isolated steps, but it’s still far from closing the loop.
For example, the biodegradability of its formulas is variable, and in many cases, it doesn’t reach the ideal level.

(Dove doesn’t provide any data on percentages.)

Just patching things up!

40

A2. PACKAGING

The 3Rs are applied only partially.

Their bar soaps come in recyclable, plastic-free packaging, and the packaging for their more “sustainable” line is reusable — you refill it with concentrated soap and water.

The rest of their products don’t follow these standards.

(Dove doesn’t provide any data on percentages.)

Still patching things up!

40

A3. BIODIVERSITY

Two controversial issues.
First, the use of palm oil which, even if certified, still raises concerns about deforestation and the loss of natural habitats.

And second, not all of their formulas are biodegradable and could end up affecting aquatic ecosystems.

(Dove doesn’t provide any data on percentages.)

Careful, careful!

30

A4. CARBON FOOTPRINT

Energy optimization in factories and the use of recycled materials in some packaging are Dove’s actions to reduce CO₂ impact.

Unilever promises carbon neutrality by 2030, but it doesn’t publish specific data or independent certifications.

A little makeup here, a little makeup there.

30

A5. SOCIAL

Their Real Beauty campaign and the Self-Esteem Project have had a wide reach and a very positive, transformative impact on self-esteem, inclusion, and diversity for women and teenagers around the world.

Bravo!  Hats off to them.

95

TEST B /  HOW WELL DO YOU TELL IT?

B1. BIOINSPIRATION

Dove encourages women to discover their real beauty, and that’s inspiration from nature.  However, natural ingredients are scarce: between 60% and 80% are synthetic, and some of them are not biodegradable.

They want women to be natural and authentic — but wash their faces with Paraffinum Liquidum.

It doesn’t make sense!

50

B2. CONNECTION WITH USERS

Yes. Dove listens to and gives a voice to its audience.  It identifies real problems and turns them into the core of its storytelling.  It innovates with disruptive narratives and non-traditional advertising formats.  It’s a benchmark in creating messages that generate a strong social and emotional impact.

Bravo, bravo, bravo — well done!

90

B3. DESIGN SIMPLICITY

Yes.  Dove’s value proposition is twofold:  First, soap with ¼ moisturizing cream, and second, real beauty.  Both ideas are communicated with clean, consistent designs that evolve without losing their identity.

Two well-deserved medals coming right up!

90

B4. TRANSPARENCY OR TRACEABILITY

Phew, I can’t see clearly — my glasses must be dirty!

Seriously,  Dove has faced criticism for its lack of details about specific practices in circularity and the environment.

They talk about sustainability without showing concrete data.  Will we have to wait until 2030?

40

B5. REGENERATIVE COMMUNICATION

The goal of regeneration is clear: beauty should be a source of confidence, not anxiety.  We already mentioned the Real Beauty campaign and the Self-Esteem Project.

But recently, Dove has also committed to not using AI to alter bodies or faces, and has created the Confidence Kit to help young people face the unreachable ideals of the digital world.

Big applause from me!

90

Ta-da!

The moment of truth has arrived — let’s see how these two scores interact.

The Circulometer reveals thaaaat:

HOW CIRCULAR ARE YOU?  4,7

HOW WELL DI YOU TELL IT  7,2

47

72

Seems like there’s a bit of a gap, right?

(…)

Well, no need to panic — things aren’t that simple. Let’s look at it in more detail.

Dove is a brand in transition. It’s taking steps toward sustainability and stands out in its segment.

Also leads with its social impact through Real Beauty campaigns that make an impact, connect emotionally, and set trends.

But it also puts on some makeup, because there are inconsistencies and a lack of transparency when it comes to data about natural and biodegradable ingredients, packaging recyclability, and carbon footprint.

Time to finish.

As a conclusion, it would be strategic for Dove to move towards more natural and circular products, working not only on skin care and women’s self-esteem, but also on the overall health of people and the planet.

And that way, they could also avoid the painful bye-bye from loyal customers like Marta the Determined, who, without even meaning to, ended up buying local, handmade soaps at the herbal shop on the corner — all thanks to Valeria the Ecoposh.

 

See you next time!

 


Diseño Circular by María Ocaña
www.ciclikcircular.com

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Sources:

Unilever 2020 Sustainability Report / Yuka / Open Beauty Facts / Think Dirty / Greenpeace.

Note:  This analysis is based on public information and independent sources.  It represents the author’s personal interpretation and does not intend to make definitive judgments about the brand.